Dermatologists' Guide to Select Right Cosmetic Products

Reviewed by Dr Yooseok Oh

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Dr. Yoonseok Oh

Specialist Dermatology

Not all of us are avid readers of the ingredients section found on cosmetic products. However, you will be surprised to learn how much information is jammed into that cluster of small fonts, which, if examined carefully, can have an enormous implication to your skin health. Association of Korean Dermatologists (AKD), at the forefront of K-beauty syndrome, published an article titled: “Cosmetic ingredients selection guide by skin type” covering 70 ingredients most commonly found in cosmetic products. We believe it is a very valuable guide that will come in handy for anyone considering a new cosmetic product. By listing the three most common skin types: Oily Skin, Dry Skin, and Sensitive Skin, you can now check which ingredients are good for you and which ones to avoid.

1. Oily skin

Oily type of skins are those with excessive sebum secretion. This skin condition oftentimes causes clogged pore and acne. It is recommended that people with oily skin use astringents and other ingredients to absorb oil from the skin. If acne has already developed on the skin, it is preferred to choose cosmetic products that contain ingredients that can help with sterilization, inhibition of bacterial growth, and wound healing. You should cleanse your face as often as possible and use cosmetics that remove dead skin cells to prevent clogging of pores.

Ingredients to look for

• Glycolic acid: reduces keratinocytes, increases moisture absorption
• Salicylic acid, Nonoxynol-9, Chlorophyll: controls sebum secretion
• Green Tea, Witch Hazel, Lemon, Camphor, Menthol, Chlorophyll, Allantoin: astringents, has soothing effect, protects skin
• Tea Tree, Licorice, Zinc Oxide, Calendula Extract, Sulfur: anti-septic, anti-inflammatory effect
• Titanium Oxide: a component used in sunscreen as physical blocker. For acne skin, it is better to choose a sunscreen that contains this ingredient

Ingredients to watch out for

• Triglyceride, Palmate, Myristic Acid, Stearic Acid: emollient ingredients. Can clog pores under excessive sebum
• Coconut oil, Shea Butter, Vaseline: Possibility of causing acne
• Oxybenzone, Methoxy Cinnamate: can cause irritation as chemical UV-blocking agent

2. Dry Skin

Dry Skin is caused when there is an imbalance between moisturization and sebum secretion on the skin. The causes for this imbalance are varied and unclear. You can tell your skin is dry when it is crumbly, scaly, cracked, itchy, or stinging. People usually think it is caused by insufficient moisture, but dry skin may also be a result of insufficient sebum secretion. In this case, you can also experience sagging, wrinkles, and pigment disorder on the skin. Therefore, it is recommended to use cosmetics with antioxidant effects for wrinkle reduction and ingredients to balance between moisture and sebum on the skin.

Ingredients to look for

• Hyaluronic acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Shea Butter: powerful moisturizers. Enhances skin moisturization.
• Sodium PCA: widely used in cosmetics as natural moisturizing ingredient
• Vitamin E: helps with blood circulation to supply more nutrition to the skin
• Vitamin A: helps with skin regeneration
• Vitamin C: enhances skin elasticity by improving collagen synthesis
• Collagen, Elastin: As a major component of the skin, helps in retaining moisture
• Avocado Oil, Evening Primrose Oil: prevents moisture evaporation
• Oatmeal Protein, Soybean Extract: enhances skin elasticity
• Chamomile, Cucumber, Peach, Seaweed Extract: humectant for skin. Softens skin
• Mulberry Root Extract, Kojic Acid, Arbutin: whitening effect to dim freckles or age spots
• Grape Seed Extract: powerful antioxidant. Eliminates free-radicals, the main cause of skin aging
• Beta-Carotene, Pilewort Extract, Vitamin B Complex: prevents skin roughening and wrinkles
• Panthenol: softens the skin

Ingredients to watch out for

• Alcohol: a compound that disinfects and sterilizes. It can evaporate moisture from the skin and make it dry
• Mud: absorbs sebum. Makes the skin drier
• Surfactant: cleaning ingredient. Can make the skin drier and sensitive.
• Menthol, Peppermint: used for pores tightening and soothing. May cause skin irritation

3. Sensitive skin

Skin tissue is thin with sensitive skin, so it reacts sensitively to external stimuli. Therefore, it is important to protect the skin from irritation factors if the sensitivity is caused either by external factors such as cosmetics or UV rays, or by diseases like seborrheic dermatitis or atopic dermatitis. You may want to seek help from your dermatologist and identify the details of the substances that cause irritation to your skin, usually through a patch test, which monitors your skin’s reaction to different substances suspected to cause issues. For sensitive skin, it is recommended to use products that contain 10 or less ingredients.

Ingredients to look for

• Vitamin K, Vitamin P, Horse Chestnut Extract: strengthens blood vessels
• Chamomile, Aloe, Corn Flour, Allantoin: helps soothe irritated skin
• Seaweed extract: rich in minerals and nutrients, makes the skin healthy
• Titanium Oxide: used in sunscreen as physical blocker. Recommended to use this type rather than chemical blocker.

Ingredients to watch out for

• Alcohol: a compound that disinfects and sterilizes. It can evaporate moisture from the skin and make it dry
• Surfactant: cleaning ingredient. Can make the skin drier and sensitive.
• Menthol, Peppermint, Eucalyptus: astringents, has soothing effect, protects skin. May cause skin irritation.
• Aroma Oil: may cause skin irritation
• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs): a group of plant and animal-derived acids used in a variety of skincare products. Its strong acidity may cause skin irritation.
• Lemon, Orange, Strawberry: citrus fruits with strong acidity can cause skin irritation
• Oxybenzone, Methoxycinnamate: they are chemical UV-blocking ingredients. Can cause skin irritation.
• Retinol: may cause irritation on sensitive skin

Nore sure about your skin type? Click here to try Free Online Skin Type Test.